上郎德村,像一幅藏在山水深处的画。它依偎在雷山县西北部的郎德镇,四面环山,山林苍翠,报德河蜿蜒而过,绕村而行。河上的风雨桥、杨大陆桥横卧水面,岸边水车转动,仿佛还在诉说着旧时的故事。吊脚木楼依山傍水,错落有致,那些青瓦木墙,像是从时光的深处走来。这里,是“世外桃源”般的存在。
Shanglangde Village is like a painting hidden in the depths of mountains and rivers. Nestled in Langde Town, in the northwest of Leishan County, it is surrounded by mountains with lush forests. The Baode River winds its way around the village. Bridges such as the Wind-Rain Bridge and Yang Dalu Bridge stretch across the water, while water wheels on the riverbanks continue to spin, as if whispering tales of the past. The stilted wooden houses lean against the mountains and rivers, scattered in an orderly yet natural manner. Their green-tiled roofs and wooden walls seem to have emerged from the depths of time. This place is nothing short of a "paradise on earth."
村子不大,5.5平方公里的地界,1132口人,散落在山野之间。最低的地方海拔735米,最高处攀至1280米。这里是国家级文物保护单位,是中国历史文化名村。2012年时,它被列入中国传统村落的名录。谁说一座村庄不过是几间房屋、几段篱笆?上郎德村,仿佛凝聚了整个苗族的历史,沉淀了几百年的风霜雨雪。
The village is not large, covering an area of 5.5 square kilometers with a population of 1,132, scattered across the mountain wilderness. Its lowest point lies at an altitude of 735 meters, while the highest reaches 1,280 meters. It is a national cultural heritage site and a renowned historical and cultural village in China. In 2012, it was included in the list of China's traditional villages. Who says a village is merely a cluster of houses and fences? Shanglangde Village seems to embody the entire history of the Miao people, carrying the weight of centuries of wind, frost, and rain.
如果你站在村头望去,山水之间,全是讲究。背靠报吉山,村前是望丰河,四周山岭层叠,像是太师椅的靠背,稳稳地将村子托在怀中。村里的房子顺着山的脉络建,或坐西朝东,或坐南朝西北,依着山势,错落有致,像是山的一部分,又像是人心的一部分。村民说,祖祖辈辈讲究风水,背山面水,负阴抱阳,这样的村子,才是安身立命的地方。
If you stand at the entrance of the village and look out, the harmony between the mountains and waters is striking. The village is backed by Baoji Mountain, with Wangfeng River flowing in front. The surrounding mountain ranges layer upon each other like the backrest of a grand armchair, holding the village securely in its embrace. The houses in the village are built along the contours of the mountains, facing either west to east or south to northwest, scattered yet harmonious, blending seamlessly with the landscape. The villagers say that their ancestors paid great attention to feng shui—backing the mountains, facing the waters, embracing yin and yang. Only such a village could provide a place of peace and livelihood.
村子最早的时候,并不在这里。据村里的老人讲,那时人少,村子散落在山梁上。到了明朝,他们才搬到山脚下。这样一来,种地方便,肥沃的田土也不被浪费。村子慢慢聚拢,形成了如今的郎德上寨和隔河相望的包寨。传说村子的祖先只有四户人家,有一天,一只流浪狗跑到望丰河边睡着了,四家人觉得这是个安居的好地方,于是便聚在了一起。时间过去了千百年,他们的后人,已在这里建起了吊脚楼,铺好了青石路,唱起了苗族的歌。
The village was not originally located here. According to the village elders, there were fewer people back then, and the settlement was scattered across the mountain ridges. It wasn't until the Ming Dynasty that they moved to the foothills. This made farming more convenient and preserved the fertile lands. Gradually, the villagers gathered together, forming what is now Langde Upper Village and the neighboring Baozhai across the river. Legend has it that the ancestors of the village were only four families. One day, a stray dog wandered to the banks of Wangfeng River and fell asleep. The four families took this as a sign that it was a good place to settle, and so they gathered there. Over the centuries, their descendants have built stilted houses, paved stone roads, and sung Miao songs, creating the village as it is today.
吊脚楼是村子的灵魂。那些楼大多是三层,五开间以上,木柱用的是最好的杉木,屋顶盖着小青瓦。楼与楼之间,有的是紧紧相连,有的却散落在山坡间,错落有致。青石板铺成的路,是弯弯曲曲的花街步道,走在上面,听得见自己的脚步回响,也听得见时间的声音。这些楼,这些路,像是村子的骨骼,把这片土地和这里的人紧紧连在了一起。
The stilted houses are the soul of the village. Most of these houses are three stories high with five or more bays. Their wooden pillars are made of the finest Chinese fir, and the roofs are covered with small green tiles. Some houses are closely connected, while others are scattered along the slopes, arranged in a natural yet harmonious manner. The stone-paved roads wind through the village like flowered paths. Walking on them, one can hear the echo of footsteps and the whispers of time. These houses and paths are like the skeleton of the village, binding the land and its people together.
这里的山川,像是有生命的。村后是苗岭主峰雷公山麓,村前的望丰河如一条玉带,将村庄环绕。东有养干山,西有干容炸当山,北对干育山,南面是报吉山。望丰河流过村前,S形的河道像一副画,水清得能看见鱼儿游动。这里的森林覆盖率高达52%,青松、杉树常年郁郁葱葱。村里人养牛、猪、鸡、鸭,鱼塘里的鱼不多,倒也自在。
The mountains and rivers here seem to have their own life. Behind the village lies Leigong Mountain, the main peak of the Miao Range, while in front, Wangfeng River flows like a jade belt, encircling the settlement. To the east is Yanggan Mountain, to the west is Ganrongzhadang Mountain, to the north is Ganyu Mountain, and to the south is Baoji Mountain. Wangfeng River meanders in an S-shaped curve before the village, its waters so clear that the fish swimming within can be seen. The forest coverage here reaches 52%, with pines and firs standing tall and lush throughout the year. Villagers raise cattle, pigs, chickens, ducks, and a few fish in their ponds, living a simple yet content life.
村子里,有几样东西,是不能不提的。古桥、古井,还有那片残存的寨墙。御清桥横跨望丰河,是同治年间杨大陆率苗民抗清时修建的。桥上加建了木结构廊屋,两旁安着“美人靠”,坐在上面,看天看水,风轻轻吹过,似乎还能听见当年的战鼓声。寨墙和战壕虽然破败了,但在村后山上,依稀还能看到它的轮廓。有人说,当年清军来犯,杨大陆率领乡民死守,寨墙虽残,魂魄犹在。
There are a few things in the village that must be mentioned: the ancient bridges, ancient wells, and the remnants of the village walls. The Yuqing Bridge spans Wangfeng River and was built during the Tongzhi period when Yang Dalu led the Miao people in resistance against the Qing army. A wooden corridor was later added atop the bridge, with "beauty rests" on both sides. Sitting there, gazing at the sky and water, and feeling the gentle breeze, one might still hear the faint echoes of war drums from the past. Though the village walls and trenches have fallen into disrepair, their outlines can still be seen on the mountain behind the village. It is said that when the Qing army invaded, Yang Dalu led the villagers in a heroic defense. Though the walls are now broken, their spirit endures.
这里的古井,竟是泉眼的妙用。房中寨水井井水清冽,分三级:头级饮用,二级洗菜,末级洗衣。井上有拱形井盖,像一座小桥,极有匠心。如今,家家户户都通了自来水,但老人们还是偏爱井水,说那是大山的味道。老人过世,必用井水沐身,这是一种告别,也是对自然的敬畏。
The ancient wells here are ingenious uses of natural springs. The water in the Fangzhongzhai well is crystal clear and divided into three levels: the top level for drinking, the second for washing vegetables, and the lowest for washing clothes. The well is covered with an arched stone structure resembling a small bridge, showcasing remarkable craftsmanship. Today, every household has access to tap water, but the elders still prefer the well water, saying it carries the taste of the mountains. When an elder passes away, the well water is used to cleanse their body—a ritual farewell and a mark of reverence for nature.
上郎德村,不只是风景,它还有故事。咸丰五年间,太平天国的风潮传到了这里,杨大陆和张秀眉率领苗民揭竿而起,反清抗暴。村里的老人说,杨大陆故居里还存着当年的铁炮和长刀。那些战壕、寨墙,见证了那段血火交织的日子。还有节日,扫寨节、招龙节,村民们载歌载舞,唱着古老的歌谣,仿佛时间从未改变过他们的生活。
Shanglangde Village is more than just a sight to behold—it is a village full of stories. In the fifth year of Xianfeng, the Taiping Heavenly Kingdom's movement reached this area, and Yang Dalu and Zhang Xiumei led the Miao people in an uprising against the Qing rulers. According to local elders, iron cannons and long knives used in those battles are still preserved in Yang Dalu's former residence. The trenches and walls bear witness to those bloody and fiery days. The village also has its festivals, such as the Sweeping the Village Festival and the Dragon-Summoning Festival, where villagers sing and dance to ancient songs, as if time has never disrupted their way of life.
今天的上郎德村,是游客们心中的向往之地。停车场通向十二道拦门酒,拦门歌声声入耳;博物馆里陈列着村子的历史与记忆;铜鼓坪上的表演,展示出苗族的风情与热烈。再往前走,是杨大陆故居,吊脚楼、古井,风雨桥,田园风光,处处是景。你可以沿着古战壕走一走,也可以在田间小道上看看山水,你会觉得,时间在这里是静止的,而你的心也会安静下来。
Today, Shanglangde Village has become a sought-after destination for travelers. From the parking lot, visitors are greeted with Twelve Gate-Welcoming Wine and the resonant melodies of welcoming songs. The museum displays the history and memories of the village, while performances at the Bronze Drum Square showcase the vibrant and unique Miao culture. Further ahead lies Yang Dalu's former residence, surrounded by stilted houses, ancient wells, wind-rain bridges, and idyllic farmland. Every corner is a scene to savor. You can stroll along the ancient trenches or wander the narrow paths between the fields. Here, you may feel as though time stands still, and your heart, too, finds peace.
上郎德村,是一首诗。诗里有山,有水,有人,有故事。它像是藏在大山深处的一块玉,被岁月打磨得温润光洁,又像是一片遗落的世外桃源,虽历经风雨,却始终宁静。这里的人、这里的房子、这里的风俗,都是时间的记忆,而那些记忆,正在铺展开,等着你走进去,细细品味。
Shanglangde Village is a poem—a poem filled with mountains, rivers, people, and stories. It is like a jade hidden deep within the mountains, polished to a gentle luster by the passage of time. It is also like a secluded paradise, enduring the storms of history yet remaining tranquil. The people, the houses, and the customs here are all memories of time, waiting to unfold before you, inviting you to step in and savor them slowly.